Legend of Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

25 Mystery Set Jewels

Through the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has consistently paid tribute to the beauty of gemstones, celebrating their colors, their brilliance, and their elegant shapes. In keeping with this tradition, since the early 2000s, the Maison has dedicated High Jewelry collections to them. This year, it is unveiling a significant set of pieces featuring exceptional white diamonds, the product of an exhilarating journey of passion and expertise.

L'Essentiel par MF

By encountering an exceptional rough diamond, the Lesotho Legend, the fifth largest rough diamond in both size and quality ever mined, the Maison had the idea to create 25 unique pieces, all of them adorned with diamonds cut from the same rough stone.

Once cut, a portion of the 67 diamonds were transformed into a collection of 25 pieces, each made using the signature Mystery Set, a complex gem setting technique mastered by the maison’s Mains d’Or.

The entire collection, the result of more than 30,000 hours of work, comes to life thanks to the Mains d’Or (literally “hands of gold”), the artisans of the Van Cleef & Arpels Workshops on the Place Vendôme who carry on the tradition of expertise that is constantly being perfected.

To unite sparkle and radiance, Van Cleef & Arpels also committed to fully highlighting the beauty of the stones. The metal on the pieces is concealed to showcase vibrant colors thanks to the Mystery Set technique, which is used on an entire collection for the very first time. Here, the stone is fitted to the metal: grooves are dug in the culasse of each gem, so they can be slid onto the metal structure. More than 3,000 stones were needed for the collection.




White gold, rose gold, one DFL Type 2A oval diamond of 79.35 carats, Individual Mystery Set rubies, Traditional Mystery Set rubies, rubies, diamonds.

The heaviest stone in the collection, this 79.35-carat diamond is given pride of place in the Atours Mystérieux necklace. The diamond magnified in this way sparkles among Traditional Mystery Set and Individual Mystery Set rubies; the oval rubies seem suspended, their color and flamboyant appearance intensified by light passing through them.

This transformable creation includes an Individual Mystery Set composition that can replace the central diamond, which can also be worn on a chain when detached.



White gold, rose gold, 3 oval-cut DFL Type 2A diamond of 30.61, 15.52 and 15.50 carats, Traditional Mystery Set rubies, diamonds.

The multi-dimensional Volutes Mystérieuses necklace expresses the timeless elegance of the motifs from the world of couture that Van Cleef & Arpels has consistently interpreted throughout its history. The tight lines of its bow echo diamond clips from the 1920s, while the diamonds on the ribbon’s border evoke the Art Deco style. The Traditional Mystery Set rubies give the earrings a velvety appearance, crossed in places by lines of rose gold and contrasting dramatically with the snow-set diamond choker. A subtle play of layers accents the piece’s contours, a real challenge for the Mains d’Or who had to adapt the Mystery Set to the creation’s convex shapes. A 30.61-carat diamond sparkles in the center of the jewel, its oval shape combining softness and elegance. A careful cutting reveals the stone’s particularly intense brilliance: the symmetry of the facets and the depth of the gem allow light to circulate inside the diamond, illuminating its crystalline material.


A pair of Volutes Mystérieuses earrings accompanies the necklace. Highlighting a meticulous setting work, they are adorned with two oval diamonds of 15.52 and

15.50 carats that form a harmoniously-sized and proportioned ensemble. These diamonds can be detached and added to the ribbons on the necklace. The Maison takes the play on metamorphoses even further by offering a motif in diamond and Traditional Mystery Set ruby to replace the central diamond of the necklace, which can itself be attached to the center of a ruby composition and worn as a pendant.



White gold, rose gold, two DFL Type 2A emerald-cut diamonds of 51.14 and 10.52 carats, Individual Mystery Set rubies, Traditional Mystery Set buff-topped rubies, pink sapphires, diamonds.

Like a couture-inspired collar, this graphic necklace drapes lightly on the neck. Alternating rows of diamonds and Traditional Mystery Set rubies, it is edged with a line of pink sapphires and square-cut diamonds that evoke delicate lace. Discreet links are hidden under the structure, making it very comfortable to wear, while a diamond- set dimensional bow hides the clasp on the back of the piece.

Two remarkable diamonds glitter at the heart of this precious necklace, one over 51 carats and the other over 10 carats. In addition to their D color and FL Type 2A purity, they are intimately linked by their perfectly proportioned emerald cut, traditionally called “tennis court.” Originally used for emeralds, this rectangular cut with beveled sides is characterized by a wide table, offering true immersion in the stone. Its concentric rows of facets on the sides and around the pavilion create captivating mirror effects that accentuate the luminosity of the two gems.

Sparkling in the hollow of the neck, the largest diamond can be detached to adorn a ring with architectural lines, while an Individual Mystery Set ruby design can be placed on the pendant. The flamboyant oval stones are thus set without visible metal, covering the surface with an opulent lightness.




White gold, rose gold, two DFL Type 2A cushion-cut diamonds of 12.65 and 12.61 carats, Traditional Mystery Set buff-topped emeralds and sapphires, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds.

The Écho Mystérieux earrings feature three diamonds: a pair of 12.65 and 12.61 carats and a 25.06-carat stone. The gentle silhouette of the cushion cut combines the intense brilliance of 57 facets with a surface that is large enough to reveal the limpidity of the material. The Maison particularly appreciates working with this shape, both for its charm and its ability to highlight the diamonds’ fire — those rainbow-colored glints. Here, the stones contrast with the deep color of the sapphires and the emeralds’ intense green.

The latter are assembled using the Traditional Mystery Set technique and their surface is buff-topped, accenting the pieces’ velvety look. The earrings match without being identical, with the colors reversing from one piece to the other. They give rise to delicate transformations thanks to their detachable pendants. Two round diamonds cut from the same rough stone complete the piece.


The Legend of Diamonds collection has two chapters.

The second chapter of Legends of Diamonds – White Diamond Variations is a collection of 82 white diamond jewels which demonstrates the permanent place that the diamond occupies in the design of the Maison’s jewels and the way in which it has been highlighted in its collections.

For these pieces, Van Cleef & Arpels once again drew inspiration from its own archives, reminiscent of the floral garland shapes of the Belle Époque and the abstract shapes of the Art Deco period.

Photo by Erik Madigan Heck 2021 - Legend of Diamonds - White Diamond Variations_2260767
Photo by Erik Madigan Heck 2021 - Legend of Diamonds



White gold, rose gold, one DIF Type 2A rose-cut pear diamond of 10.32 carats, one DIF rose-cut oval diamond of 4.46 carats, diamonds.

Inspired by the long, flowing necklaces of the 1920s, the Roaring Twenties long necklace evokes the creativity of Van Cleef & Arpels during those years. In the 1920s, flapper style gave rise to flowing outfits that the Maison elegantly accented with long necklaces combining diamonds and precious or ornamental stones. The easily transformable piece offers up to eight different ways to wear it: three short necklaces, three different long necklaces, and two bracelets.



White gold, one emerald-cut DIF Type 2A diamond of 10.06 carats, diamonds.

The Fabulous Fifties necklace pays homage to the glamor of that decade. Its radiant lines evoke the rivers of diamonds that glimmered on the big screen in the black – and – white films of the time, making High Jewelry houses famous. The necklace’s fully articulated openwork structure brings together lightness and comfort when worn. The choker has been carefully designed to ensure that the necklace falls beautifully and that the piece’s motifs sit smoothly on the chest. The stone’s cut exhibits “tennis court” proportions, giving the stone a lovely harmony between length and width.

Photo by Erik Madigan Heck 2021 - Legend of Diamonds - White Diamond Variations_2260749
Photo by Erik Madigan Heck 2021 - Legend of Diamonds
Design Louis George
Majestic Filatures
Tres Chic
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